LM: My newish car trailer (2024)

In a true FB marketplace, what did I just do, type of trade...last night a guy drove down Chattanooga to Knoxville to trade this car trailer for an old Honda dirtbike. I was thinking I'd use it to take my old Willys Jeep to Windrock Offroad park. Maybe use it to move one of my other vehicles if need be. The tires seem new and I towed it around my neighborhood last night just fine.It does not have trailer brakes. It does have a 2"ball and 7 prong plug and the safety chains look new. It does not have any straps or tie down chains. It does have two ramps that slid into the rear of the trailer. It is full mesh across the bottom with the boards added for extra support. All the mesh looks fine from underneath, and the boards are fit into a channel along the inside edge of the trialer.

But I also came to the realization this morning that I've never owned or used a trailer like this. The closest I ever used was an Uhaul car hauler. I did a search of GRM for other threads and found several that led me to some questions.

How do I figure out how much of a load I can put on it? I don't see any weight markings or stickers.

In the pics I saw of y'alls with a vehicle on them, it looks like the front 3/4 of the vehicle is in front of or above the trailer axles, with the last 1/4 behind the axle. I assume this changes based on different vehicles, but what is the proper weight distribution technique?

I also assume I don't want all the weight as far forward on the tongue as possible correct?

It has no tie down straps or wheel straps. It does have several D-rings all around. What type of straps do I need? If ratchet straps what weight? Also, what is the proper method for securing the vehicle to the trailer?

It'll be stored outside uncovered in my backyard or on the side of the house. Do I need to do anything specific if it sits for awhile?

Lastly, what's on of these worth? I was into the dirtbike for less than $1000, and from looking on FB these seem to be anywhere from $1800-3500 but that includes a large range of very different trailers.

I can't really tell from the picture if those are 4 lug or 5 lug axles. If they're 5 lug and72" wide, they're probably 3500lb axles. I would be more concerned with the overall construction, especially the tongue section,to evaluate how much to load it. Lacking brakes, I'd say a smallish car would be the most I would want to put on it. I think a Willys would be fine.

I had a 5x8 utility trailer tongue tear off once on a trailer that I bought new and only used for light residential duty. Once it failed, it was evident that the load capacity was vastly overblown. It had c-channel tongue section welded to square tube that was very thin.

We don't have to register trailers in TN, but other states require tags and a registration. Something to keep in mind if you decide to send it down the road. (Assume it didn't have a title or bill of sale?)

I would assume they are 3500lb axles with a trailer weight of around 2000lb or less so load capacity would be around 5000lb to be comfortable.

I tend to just pull forward on the trailer enough to get the rear suspension of the tow vehicle to squat enough that it is level, erring on the side of more tongueweight is better for stability. I'm sure there is a better way to do it.

I use 2" ratchet straps (3300lb working load) and axle straps, either through the wheels or around the axle/suspension components.

Complete brake assemblies aren't too expensive and would be good to have on one axle.

Locally it would probably be listed around $2-2500.

octavious said:

How do I figure out how much of a load I can put on it? I don't see any weight markings or stickers.

In the pics I saw of y'alls with a vehicle on them, it looks like the front 3/4 of the vehicle is in front of or above the trailer axles, with the last 1/4 behind the axle. I assume this changes based on different vehicles, but what is the proper weight distribution technique?

It has no tie down straps or wheel straps. It does have several D-rings all around. What type of straps do I need? If ratchet straps what weight? Also, what is the proper method for securing the vehicle to the trailer?

It looks like it has normal trailer axles, not the godawful mobile home version. Typical Dexter axle load rating is 3500 lbs each. Check the tires for max capacity and run the pressures high. Street radials ok, trailer specific tires are better with higher load rating.

You'll learn the right weight balance, trust me. To start, stand back and visualize for level. You don't want headlights pointed at the sky, that's too much tongue weight. Too little and the trailer will feel very nervous. Just like understeer, a little more tongue weight is better at the beginning.

Tons of ratchet straps out there, all with super high load ratings to give you the 5-10x safety buffer for surviving hard stops and maneuvers. As to how to tie down, it's a religion like oil selection. I typically do around a meaty suspension piece or diff, straight forward and backward, no criss-crosses but you'll get plenty of other suggestions.

If it was me, I would post-add the Dexter magnetic drum brakes. Should be an easy addition, and a lot of piece of mind when the trailer is helping to stop itself.

Here's the amazon link to the axle straps Evan sent me years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT5Y1P7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are longer than what you can get at Habour Frieght and Northern Tool.

Stampie said:

Here's the amazon link to the axle straps Evan sent me years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FT5Y1P7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are longer than what you can get at Habour Frieght and Northern Tool.

These are still working well for me and show no signs of wear or fraying. They are long enough to strap through a normal wheel and tire (maybe not a large off-road tire if that's what the jeep has).

It looks very similar to the construction of my trailer but without the full wood deck. Mine wasn't happy hauling a tractor with a loaderand backhoe (maybe 9000lb?) but everything else I've had on it has been fine.

I second the motion to put a set of trailer brakes on it. etrailer.com will have anything you will need:

Brakes:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/etrailer/AKEBRK-35.html

Drums

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKHD-545-35-K.html

Note: this was a very fast search and may not be exactly what you need but it's probably pretty close. Installing them is pretty easy and makes a huge difference.

The right way to load the car is to measure the tongue weight and place the car so that it's 10-15% of the overall weight of the trailer. You can buy tongue weight scales, but they're $150 or so. Perhaps you can find someone locally you can borrow one from?

This probably isn't an issue with a Tundra and an open trailer like that one, but it is possible for the proper tongue weight to still make it squat too much (headlights pointed at the sky). If so then you want either airbag helpers in the rear of the truck or a weight-distributing hitch.

I agree on trailer brakes -- I would definitely look into retrofitting them if I was going to tow a car on it.

buzzboy UltraDork
5/29/24 12:14 p.m.

I usually pull forward just until the truck squats a little. You don't want to be on the bump stops. Play with it a little and mark where you like the front to be if you're commonly towing the same trailer.

I started off using axle straps and I'm not a fan. I keep worrying that I'm going to tear up a brake line or yank on a shock wrong. We're currently usingThis styleand they're fine and we have towed many thousands of miles. I would love to havethis stylebut our trailer doesn't work with them.

Get trailer brakes. Game changer

03Panther PowerDork
5/29/24 12:15 p.m.

03Panther PowerDork
5/29/24 12:31 p.m.

In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :

Agreed on all!

GRM tongue scale:

3' long board. Pivot on one end. Tongue jack at 1'. Bathroom scale at other end.
2:1 ratio - scale reads 300= 600 lbs Tongue weight.

Just right for 6000 lb trailer and car.

300 lbs might sag truck... many ways to solve. Best bang for buck is air bags.

I got one of these hitches, makes it easy to figure out tongue weight.

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

Looks like a nice trailer. Couple few things for you:

• Tire covers if it sits for a long time outside
• Spray the wood down with oil once a year to keep it happy.
• Stake pockets look decent, I would weld on some eyes for straps as well.
• Make sure the spare actually fits the trailer.
• I like spares that mount to the trailer so I can't forget them.
• Make sure you have a jack that works, either on the vehicle or take with you
• Make sure you have a lug wrench that works. Confirm your tow vehicle lug wrech is the same size.
• I like to keep an extra set of bearings and seals along with all the smalls to do a re-bearing in my tow vehicle or even better in a small toolbox on the trailer. I figure I can always beg/borrow/steal the tools or take it to a shop, but if I am BFE and don't have a bearing, I am gonna be sad.
• Double axle trailers are nice, make sure you familiarize yourself with the technique to strap one axle up in case something goes bad.
• When hauling I like to do a few things:
  • Check my straps after 5 minutes or so and every stop thereafter
  • Inspect my chains and hitch at every stop.
  • Check my wheel hubs by hand for temperature variation every stop

03Panther PowerDork
5/29/24 2:02 p.m.

In reply to turboshadow :

Thanks for including a link. That's the one I had in mind. To expensive for me, but definitely a very nice setup.

Thanks guys.

5 lug tires. All the same brand TexStar, made in China, and all day for trailer use only. Dual max load says 1610lbs. I don't see any brakes on either axle.

It does have this box tho

chandler MegaDork
5/29/24 7:11 p.m.

octavious said:

Thanks guys.

5 lug tires. All the same brand TexStar, made in China, and all day for trailer use only. Dual max load says 1610lbs. I don't see any brakes on either axle.

It does have this box tho

Use the single weight rating, dual rating is for bolted to each other and is less due to the extra heat that builds up between them.